Category Archives: Nepal

Everything about Nepal

Mustang in Lonely Planets Best in Travel 2013 List

The other day I was so happy to read the following article and I am sharing it here. Yes, Mustang, the picturesque town in Nepal has mangaed to get on the list of best places to travel in 2013 list.

I have never been there and I hope to go there in the near future. Here are some information regarding the place.

Only a few years ago it was “nobody’s been there”, now it’s heading towards “last chance to see”. The completion of a road connecting Mustang to China in the north and the rest of Nepal to the south will make all the difference.

Lo Manthang, or Mustang as it’s usually called, has been dubbed “little Tibet” or “the last forbidden kingdom”; though politically a part of Nepal, in language, culture, climate and geography, it’s closer to Tibet. The remote region is north of the Himalayan watershed and on the Tibetan plateau, and just south of the border with “big Tibet”, the Chinese one.

Life in Mustang revolves around tourism, animal husbandry and trade. Apart from nine kilometers between Chhusang and Syangboche (just south of Ghiling (Geling)), it is bisected, as of August 2010, by a new road linking it to the Tibet Autonomous Region (TAR) to the north and to the rest of Nepal to the south. Plans call for these final nine kilometers to be linked within the next few years, at which time the road would become the lowest drivable corridor through the Himalayas linking the Tibetan Plateau to the tropical Indian plains. The highest point would be 4660 m at Kora La on the Mustang-TAR border. Currently, the easiest and only widely used road corridor, from Kathmandu to Lhasa via the Arniko Rajmarg (Arniko Highway), traverses a 5125 m pass.

The below is an excerpt from the October edition of National Geographic magazine.

“Mustang, a former kingdom in north-central Nepal, is home to one of the world’s great archaeological mysteries. In this dusty, wind-savaged place, hidden within the Himalaya and deeply cleaved by the Kali Gandaki River—in spots, the gorge dwarfs Arizona’s Grand Canyon—there are an extraordinary number of human-built caves.

Some sit by themselves, a single open mouth on a vast corrugated face of weathered rock. Others are in groups, a grand chorus of holes, occasionally stacked eight or nine stories high, an entire vertical neighborhood. Some were dug into cliffsides, others tunneled from above. Many are thousands of years old. The total number of caves in Mustang, conservatively estimated, is 10,000.

No one knows who dug them. Or why. Or even how people climbed into them. (Ropes? Scaffolding? Carved steps? Nearly all evidence has been erased.) Seven hundred years ago, Mustang was a bustling place: a center of Buddhist scholarship and art, and possibly the easiest connection between the salt deposits of Tibet and the cities of the Indian subcontinent. Salt was then one of the world’s most valuable commodities. In Mustang’s heyday, says Charles Ramble, an anthropologist at the Sorbonne in Paris, caravans would move across the region’s rugged trails, carting loads of salt.”

Mustang has an average elevation of 13,000ft and is located to the north of the mountain giants of Dhaulagiri and Annapurna and is therefore north of the main Himalayan range and geographically is part of the highlands of Tibet. It is a vast high valley, arid and dry, characterized by eroded canyons, colorful stratified rock formations and has a barren, desert like appearance.

Naturally, most of the history is now a matter of legend rather than recorded fact, but it seems clear that Lo was once part of Ngari, part of Tibet and a rather loose collection of feudal domains. It was incorporated into the Tibetan Empire under the most famous of the Tibetan kings Songtsengampo. It was an important means of crossing the Himalaya from Tibet to Nepal, and many of the old salt caravans passed through Mustang. By 14C much of Ngari became part of the Malla Empire, whose capital was Sinja in western Nepal. It became an independent kingdom in its own right, under the rule of Ame Pal, the founder king of Lo in 1380. The present royal family can trace its history 25 generations back to Ame Pal, and the city of Lomanthang, was the centre of their power.

Well known, intrepid explorers such as Professor David Snellgrove and the Italian scholar Guiseppi Tucci visited Mustang in the 1950’s and it has largely been their tales of a Tibetan like arrid region that has fuelled interest in the area.
If you love nature or trekking, I am sure you will love it there so do make a plan to go and visit this beautiful place.

Enjoy some amazing photos from Mustang.

Climbers and scientists follow a trail above the Kali Gandaki River in Nepal’s remote Mustang region. More than 60 feet above are rows of unexplored man-made caves dug centuries ago. There may be thousands in the region.
© Cory Richards/National Geographic

To reach a series of caves dug into a cliff 155 feet above the valley floor, Matt Segal scales a rock face so fragile it often breaks off to the touch. Linked by a ledge, the 800-year-old caves, empty now, may once have stored manuscripts.
© Cory Richards/National Geographic

Dusk falls over the temples and homes of Tsarang, once the region’s most important town. In Mustang, where the centuries have not disrupted the traditional rhythm of life, the caves offer clues to a time when the remote Himalayan kingdom was a hub linking Tibet to the rest of the world.

Mustang (1) Mustang (2) Mustang (3) Mustang (4) Mustang (5) Mustang (6) Mustang (7)All the images below Credit: Gilles Sabrie for The New York TimesMustang (8)The Kali Gandaki riverbed in Kagbeni, Nepal. Most trekkers enter Nepal’s Upper Mustang region at Kagbeni. Mustang (9)North of Kagbeni, trekkers make their way along a high trail near Samar. Last year, nearly 3,000 tourists entered Upper Mustang, according to government statistics. Mustang (10)Farmers harvesting in the village. Mustang (12)A nomad’s necklaces. Much of Upper Mustang is desolate, inhabited by about 5,400 people.Mustang (11)A view of Lo Manthang, the walled capital of Mustang.  Mustang (13)A closer view of the capital. Mustang (14)A man appears at his window in Lo Manthang. Mustang (15)Shadows of people on horseback appear in the barren landscape around Mustang’s capital. Mustang (16)Just to the southeast lies Yara. Mustang (17)A farmer stands in fields near Lo Manthang. Mustang (18)Locals haul baskets between rows of prayer wheels. Mustang (21)Another view of Yara. Mustang (22)Tashi Kabum, a cave temple near Yara, opened to the public only a few years ago.Mustang (20)Inside the cave, a fresco representing Chenrezig. For Tibetan Buddhists, Chenrezig was a bodhisattva embodying compassion.

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Learn Nepal Bhasa / Newari – Chapter 15

 

English

Nepal Basa

Appetizing Saa-i-khwaah wah-gu
Bitter Khaa-yu
First course Chha-sa-raa
Mouth watering Ii chu-ku chuku wangu
Piping hot Chu-inn chu-inn puu-gu
Second course Ni-sa-raa
Sour Paauu
Spicy Paa-lu
Sweet Chaa-kuu
Taste Sa-waah
Tasteless Nyaa-lu
Tasty Maa-ku
Very salty Chi-nwah
I do not eat meat. Ji laa ma-na-yaa.
I do not drink alcohol. Ji ay-laah-ma-twa-naa.
Is this liquor homemade? Thaw ay-laah chhee-ay da-ye-kaa tah-gu khak laa.
This yougurt was delicious. Dhau ta-sa-kaa saah.
It was a pleasure. Ta-sa-kaa nhyai-pu-se chwa-na.
Sahuji, please me a cup of tea. Shauji, chyaa chha-guu kap bi-yaa di-saa.
Not too much sugar please. Chi-ni ya-kwa ta-yaa di-I ma-te.
One cup without milk. Chha-guu kapay du-ru-ma-ta-ye-gu.
We will sit down here. Ji-pinn tha-na chwa-ne.
Do you have something to eat? Na-ye-gu chuu du laa?
Please give me a packet of biscuits too. Biskut chha-pu-ri naa bi-yaa si-saa.
How much do I owe you? Dhe-baa gu-li ju-la?
Here are the glasses. Gi-laas tha-na du.

Please click here for previous chapters.

Learn Nepal Bhasa / Newari – Chapter 14

 

English Nepal Basa
Boiled Ma-naa-tah-gu
Fried Pu- kaa-tah-gu
Jellied Khway-kaa-tah-gu
Roasted Chhu-yaa-tah-gu
Seasoned Waa-laa-tah-gu
Steamed Haa-yaa-tah-gu
Is there a restaurant around here? Tha-na ha-nann restaurant du la?
I will have a plate of momo. Ma-ma cha chha-guu plate ha-yaa di-saa.
Please bring it quickly. Yaa-ka naa ha-yaa di-saa.
Is it spicy? Paa-lu laa?
This is not what I ordered. Jinn dha-yaa-gu thaw ma-khu.
Please being the bill. Bill bi-yaa-di-saa.
Dinner is served. Be-li yaa-ye ji-la.
Only a small portion, please. Bha-ti-chaa ja-ka ta-yaa di-saa.
No more, thank you. Ji-tah gaa-ta.
I would like some water. Lah bi-yaa di-saa.
I would like more rice. Jaa bha-chaa ta-yaa di-saa.
Please give me a spoon. Cham-chaa chha-guu bi-yaa di-saa.
What is the name of this food? Thwa na-saa-yaa naa chhi khah?
Does it contain meat? Thu-ki-I laa du laa?
May I step inside? Du-ne wa-ne jii laa?
Do I have to take off my shoes? Laa- kaa twah-te maah laa?
Yes/no Maah/mwah
What god is kept in there? A-na chhu dyah ta-yaa tah-gu du?
Can I take a picture? Tas-bir kaa-ye jii laa?
What’s that temple? Wa chuu de-gah?
We come to see the procession. Ji-pii jaa-traa swah-was-yaa-gu.
Will the procession pass this way? Jaa-traa tha-naa hai la?

Please click here for previous chapters.

Pashupatinath and Guheswari temple

Pashupatinath Temple is one of the most significant Hindu temples of Lord Shiva in the world, located on the banks of the Baghmati River in the eastern part of Kathmandu, the capital of Nepal. Every time I am in Nepal I try to go and visit the temple and last time, I went there with AS and my MIL. It was a cold winter morning and I really love that time of the year in Kathmadu.

Pashupathi (1)

The temple serves as the seat of the national deity, Lord Pashupatinath and is listed in UNESCO World Heritage Sites list.

According to Nepal Mahatmaya and Himvatkhanda one day Lord Shiva grew tired of his palace atop Mt. Kailash and so went in search of a place where he could escape to. He discovered Kathmandu Valley and, without telling anyone, he ran away from his palace and came to live in the Valley. He gained great fame there as Pashupati, Lord of the Animals, before the other gods discovered his hiding place and came to fetch him. He disguised himself as a majestic deer and would not help the other gods when they asked for his help. When Shiva did not yield to their pleas, they planned to use force. Vishnu grabbed him by his horns and they shattered into pieces. Vishnu established a temple and used the broken horns to form a linga on the bank of the Bagmati River.

As time went by, the temple was buried and forgotten. One day a cow was seen to secretly sprinkle her milk over a mound. Apparently, when the cow herders dug at the spot, they found the lost linga and again built a temple at the same spot in reverence of Lord Shiva.

 After we parked the car we have to walk for a while to reach the gate of the main temple. There at lots of vendors selling flowers and necessary items for puja as well as small souvenirs and idols of Hindu gods on either side of the road.

Pashupathi (2)

As usual all of the vendors were eager to grab a customer and shouting at passers-by. My MIL law decided to buy a few stuffs from one vendor as we walked towards the main door. Before you reach the main door, you have to take off your shoe and socks off and wash your feet before going into the temple (imagine how cold my feet were getting in a winter morning on stone floors).

From there we approached the main door. I know that non Hindus are not permitted inside this door and you are not allowed to take leather items and camera inside.

Pashupathi (4) Pashupathi (3)

As it was a weekday, the temple was not too busy. But there were a large group of Indian devotees in the queue. Pashupatinath is very famous among Indian Hindu and every year busloads of them come to Kathmandu to pray and worship.

Also there were many Sadhus seen in Pasupatinath. There are holy people, who live in isolation, to achieve liberation. But behind the painted faces, one never knows how pious they are.

After we walked around the main temple of Pashupati, we were going to many Lingams of Pashupati and, I happen to look down on the Baghmati River.  There were funerals taking place on either side of the river. I was glad I didn’t see the dead body but they were loading logs of wood on the podiums for cremations and, the air was thick with the smell of smoke. In Hindu religion, when a person dies, they are cremated. First there are the rituals of washing the body (purifying it) and lighting lamps all around it to protect the body. Then the body is loaded on the logs and the eldest son of the family lights the fire on the log. If one has no sons, then it will be done by father, brother or any other male member of the family.

In olden days if a woman’s husband died, she was required/ pressurised to burn with him. The process is called Sati. The act of Sati, in which a Hindu widow immolates herself on her husband’s funeral pyre as a final and consummate act of loyalty and devotion, is patterned after the deed committed by a goddess to uphold the honour of her husband. I am just glad it is not practiced these days.

I still hate the other ritual Nepali women practice when their husband dies. Please read this post for more details.

After that we came out from the main door and went to get our shoes. There were lots of pigeon and cow just roaming around there so I decided to take a few photos with them.

pashupathi

As we left the temple, we saw a whole hoard of monkeys! I find them very frightening, especially when they show their teeth and hiss but AS was happy taking their photos.

Pashupathi (8)

From Pashupatinath we went to the nearby Guheswari temple.

It is one of the revered holy temples in Kathmandu, Nepal. This temple is dedicated to Adi Shakti. This refers to the popular legend where Shiva distressed was carrying the corpse of Devi Sati and Vishu annihilated it with his Sudarshan Chakra. Shiva later declared the 51 such places where Devi Sati’s body parts fell were to be worshipped as the Shakti Peethas and meditated at all these places as various forms of Bhairavas. The place where Devi Sati’s knees fell is Guheswari in Kathmandu. In Nepal the form of Shakti is Mahashira and the form of Bhairava is Kapali. King Pratap Malla built this temple in the 17th century. The temple name originates from guhya (cave) and ishwari (goddess). Non-Hindus are not allowed to enter this temple as well.

Pashupathi (5)

We went inside the temple and there were not many people there. We just prayed and went around the temple and were out in a few minutes.

Pashupathi (6)

The temple of Guheswari houses no image of any Goddess but has been regarded as a place of worship since times immemorial. Many believe this to be the temple to go to in order to pray for marital fidelity and a lot of Hindus will make the trip here to ensure that their marriage does not suffer.

For us, it was a quick stopover before we headed home to our warm cup of tea and warm jeri swari 🙂

Till next time, take care

M from nepaliaustralia

XOXO

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Recycling and reusing in Nepal

This article was published in +977 (a Nepalese Lifestyle Magazine in Australia) in April 2013 issue.

recycling post blog

My recent visit to Nepal has given me inside to many things and one of them is recycling and using anything and everything possible.

Recycling is very important, but even better is reusing. I was really impressed on reusing skill on people from Nepal. From old metal cans, plastic bags, old newspapers, packing containers and old clothes, Nepali housewives especially found ways to give second life for simple items around their home by reusing them.

I really think people living in west are spoiled and they really need to learn how to reuse and recycle than buying things that are use and throw. I have to admit, even though I am conscious about recycling and reusing, I have a long way to go to be anywhere near these housewives. I am going to remember from now on that not everything is destined for the rubbish bin. I need to think before I throw.

No matter how rich or how poor people are, most Nepali people reuse lots of thing and this is what I observe.

  • Plastic grocery bags used as small trash can bags.
  • Ziplock bags washed and reused.
  • Worn out clothes used as rags to clean floors and windows.
  • Margarine and butter tubs used as takeaway containers.
  • Everyone unwrap their gifts very careful so they can reuse the wrapping paper.
  • Shoe boxes used as storage containers for small items.
  • Old toothbrush used to clean hard to reach areas like around the sink, your drains, faucets and grout.
  • Newspaper used for cleaning windows and mirrors. Also it is used to clean up after pets.
  • Old glass bottles from tomato sauce or honey used as storage container for herbs and spices in the kitchen.It can be also be used as a stationary organiser.

  • Small jars from jams used as candle holders.
  • Old saucers used as soap dishes.
  • Mugs are used as utensil holders.

  •  Leftovers are put in freeze and used in fried rice the next day.
  • Any kind of boxes used as storage containers or organisers.
  •  Plastic milk jugs, juice containers, big coke bottles used to store water.
  •  Small plastic water or soda bottles used to take water with you while out and about.

If you are interested in any of the ideas, please Google and you will find heaps of ideas on how to turn your trash into treasure and you will be surprised how good they look. Also it will help you save some money and you are doing your bit to save the environment.

Do you recycle?

Till next post, take care.

M from nepaliaustralia

XOXO

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